|
|
Touchdown at Bonaire
|
|
After a 4am pickup at Shalford for a 6.30 flight to Amsterdam, we overflew Guildford again at midday before touching down 11 hours later at Bonaire in the Caribean. After a further 4 hours we reached Lima in the early evening. |
|
|
|
Marguerita at the museum
|
|
A 9am start for the morning tour of Lima - starting at the archaelogical museum. Here we see Marguerita as enthusiastic as ever, explaining the significance of the animals shown in this early carved stone. |
|
|
|
Mummy
|
|
The ancient indiginous Peruvians buried their dead in foetal position. This is a well preserved example due to the dry atmosphere. |
|
|
|
Erotic pots
|
|
The museum contained many examples of ancient Peruvian pots. They were in the form of animals, people, objects and these sexually explicit pots seemed particularly popular. |
|
|
|
More pots
|
|
 |
|
|
|
A dog jug
|
|
A particularly fine example of a jug in the form of a dog. |
|
|
|
Llama pots.
|
|
 |
|
|
|
The Museum
|
|
The archaeological musem from across the square, plus the statue of Simon Bolivar. |
|
|
|
Typical house
|
|
Typical house in a posh part of Lima. Note the cage around the front garden. |
|
|
|
Changing of the guard
|
|
Changing the guard at the presidential palace. |
|
|
|
The real guard
|
|
The real guards of the palace plus the band. |
|
|
|
The main square, Lima
|
|
The palace from across the main square. (Composite photo) |
|
|
|
Central Lima
|
|
Entrance to Old Post Office Arcade on Aliaga Street in Lima. |
|
|
|
Central Lima
|
|
|
|
|
|
San Francisco Monastery in Lima
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Cloisters at old monastery
|
|
|
|
|
|
Old Monastery
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Monastery Church
|
|
|
|
|
|
Monastery Cloisters
|
|
We are led by Marguerite |
|
|
|
Main square in Lima
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lima
|
|
View North West showing shany town on lower slopes of mountain. |
|
|
|
Lima
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lima
|
|
Showing half built half occupied houses in front of more shanties |
|
|
|
Park
|
|
The next day we started on our coach journey south heading first to Mirafiores.
View of the pier from park in Mirafiores district of Lima |
|
|
|
Park
|
|
Lovers statue in Mirafiores park. |
|
|
|
Pier at Mirafiores
|
|
|
|
|
|
Peruvian hairless dog
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
Model showing the pre-inca temple complex of Pachacamac - the next stop along the coast to the south. |
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
Pachacamac - Temple of the Sun |
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
|
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
View of encroaching shanty town. |
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
Guard overlooking the site |
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
|
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
View from temple to the Pacific |
|
|
|
Pachacamac
|
|
|
|
|
|
Motorway South
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Toll booths
|
|
|
|
|
|
Road safety
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Shanty town stage 1
|
|
The houses in a shanty town start by laying down mats and matting walls. |
|
|
|
Shanty town stage 2
|
|
Then a more permanent structure is established. |
|
|
|
Shanty Town
|
|
And then it grows into an entire town - overlooking the Pacific in this case. |
|
|
|
Cycle Race
|
|
Just because it's the only main road south doesn't stop it being blocked by a cycle race and this truck of supporters. |
|
|
|
Cycle race
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hacienda San Jose
|
|
A late lunch at the Hacienda at Chincha. |
|
|
|
Hacienda San Jose
|
|
The entertainment |
|
|
|
Hacienda San Jose
|
|
Music from an animal's jawbone by rattling the teeth. |
|
|
|
Hacienda San Jose
|
|
In the cellars |
|
|
|
Hacienda San Jose
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Hacienda San Jose
|
|
The hacienda's church |
|
|
|
Jean
|
|
Photographing cotton on the way from San Jose back to the main road. |
|
|
|
Paracas
|
|
After a long day in the coach, we finished at Paracas just south of Pisco. Overnight at a waterside hotel with pools and a fantastic view http://www.hotelparacas.com/welcome/index.html |
|
|
|
Paracas
|
|
Our bungalow |
|
|
|
Paracas
|
|
View from the bungalow |
|
|
|
Paracas
|
|
Pelicans on the jetty |
|
|
|
IMGP3088
|
|
Next day, our journey to the Ballestas Islands by speed boat. |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
but first we paused at this promontery - full of pelicans. |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
and an ancient drawing in the sand of a candelabra cactus |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
Further out to sea, our destination. An island group, home to thousands of seabirds and their guano. |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
including this group of penguins |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
and baby sealions |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
and not so baby sealions |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
And yes, the boat did drive through this arch - and unlike a boat in the week of 8 May 04, didn't hit a rock and eject its passengers. |
|
|
|
Ballestas Islands
|
|
sealion beach |
|
|
|
Paracas
|
|
Back to the hotel - the private jetty (composite photo) |
|
|
|
South of Pisco
|
|
And then we continued South - down this road which needs to be constantly swept for sand. |
|
|
|
IMPG3174A
|
|
even here, the shanty towns spring up |
|
|
|
Ica Museum
|
|
Lunch was a picnic in the grounds of the museum. We borrowed the chairs from the museum cafe - to which the surplus food was given! Note the Inca Cola - Peru is the only country in the world where Coke isn't the market leader. |
|
|
|
The road to Nazca
|
|
Fellow traveller Pete videos where we're about to go. |
|
|
|
The Road to Nazca
|
|
Yes, this really was the main road! And we haven't changed to the bus with the strengthened suspension yet. |
|
|
|
Nazca
|
|
It's all right we'd pre-booked |
|
|
|
Nazca
|
|
our trip on a light plane to view the Nazca Lines. |
|
|
|
Nazca
|
|
The Nazca lines are scratched into the surface of the desert and are only visible from the air. The weather is such that despite being hundreds of years old, the lines are still visible. |
|
|
|
Nazca
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Nazca
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nazca
|
|
Back at Nazca, these holes go down to underground water channels. |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
Next day, our journey continued South - pausing for a walk along the beach. |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
 |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
and Howard went for a paddle in the Pacific - warmer than off Half Moon Bay in January! |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
coffee (or coca tea) stop |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
|
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
and lunch - another picnic, this time by the sea. (We think that this picnic might have been responsible for the food poisoning outbreak on the trip!)
We can't be sure, but we suspect this was the cause of rampant food poisoning in our Bales tour group. It wasn't helped by the intense sun, lack of any shade and no facilities! |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
But it did have a tremendous view of the Pacific Ocean |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
if very little shade from the intenense sun. The coach park had lots of room. |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
Jean and cacti |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
More cacti and the Pacific behind. |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
This is where the road went (enhanced photo) |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
(enhanced photo) |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
(enhanced photo) |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
Thankfully we were driving by day. |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
|
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
 |
|
|
|
The drive South East to Arequipa
|
|
Now where's the RAC when you want them. We broke down due to a hydraulic fault which our two drivers repaired.
It really was in the middle of the desert and a long drive in any direction to the nearest town.
We'd been giving a lift to two policemen most of the day, but they deserted us for the police vehicle that stopped to assist. |
|
|
|
Arequipa - Misti volcano
|
|
The breakdown meant it was after dark, so our first view of the volcanoes surrounding Arequipa was the next morning. This is Misti.
We changed in Arequipa to a different bus - with a strengthened suspension. |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
|
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
Street vendors ignoring the attempts to move them on |
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
The Santa Catalina Convent is almost a city within a city. Initially more of a finishing school than a convent it is now in a very small part still a convent. Tourists are shown the older parts as they would have been in the 17/18th century. http://www.cusco-peru.org/cultural-cusco-museum-cusco-santa-catalina-convent-museum.shtml |
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
|
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
|
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
|
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
|
|
|
|
Arequipa - Santa Catalina Convent
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Arequipa - Plaza des Armes
|
|
The main square in Arequipa. |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
La Compania church, just off the Plaza des Armes |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
La Compania church, just off the Plaza des Armes |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
La Compania church, just off the Plaza des Armes - close up of detail of carving |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
La Compania church, interior |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
La Compania church, interior - back chapel being restored |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
Cloisters next door to the church, now mainly up-market alpacca shops. |
|
|
|
Arequipa
|
|
Collonade covering pavement round Plaza des Armes |
|
|
|
Vicunias on road to Colca Canyon
|
|
|
|
|
|
Refreshment stop on the way to Chivay
|
|
This is where the metalled road stopped and the dirt roads began. We stopped here for coca tea (made by infusing coca leaves in hot water - not to my taste and not legal in the UK!) We also picked up these 4 policemen who wanted a lift for about 50 miles. |
|
|
|
Our hitchhikers take their seats
|
|
|
|
|
|
The road to Chivay
|
|
 |
|
|
|
The inevitable tourist trap with alpacca
|
|
|
|
|
|
We went the other way
|
|
Our hitchhiking policemen leave on foot for the rest of their journey! |
|
|
|
Spot the rabbit
|
|
|
|
|
|
Spot the main road
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Chivay market
|
|
|
|
|
|
near Chivay
|
|
A stop on the way up the Colca Valley to the Colca Canyon |
|
|
|
near Chivay
|
|
|
|
|
|
near Chivay
|
|
They were breakfasting on a porridgey drink and bread. |
|
|
|
Colca Valley
|
|
Terracing for cultivation |
|
|
|
Waiting for the condors
|
|
We had a two hour stop at the point where Andean condors regularly soar in the thermals above the Colca Canyon. |
|
|
|
Andean condor
|
|
They turned up for the last 15 minutes! |
|
|
|
IMGP3330
|
|
 |
|
|
|
IMPG3330A
|
|
|
|
|
|
IMGP3335
|
|
 |
|
|
|
IMGP3340
|
|
|
|
|